The Real Skelligs

In case you were worried, we did make it out to the Skelligs the day after our trip was cancelled. The Skellig Islands are just off the coast of Kerry and hundreds of years ago (from about the 6th to 13th century), they were home to early Christian monks. I have spent a lot of time on remote islands over the last 8 years so keep that in mind when I say, they must have been crazy. The Farallones have been called the Devil's teeth, if that's true, the Skelligs must be like Satan's fangs or something. The guidebook says Skellig Michael, where the monks lived, reaches something like 700 feet (217m) and the monastic settlement is about 500 ft (150m) up. And I mean straight up. The islands knife into the sky from frothing shorelines with absolutely no level ground. The monks constructed terraces and stone staircases to move around the island. At the very tippy top, there was a small structure that could only be reached via a stone ladder that was carved into the stone itself.

The weather on the day was actually worse than the day before, as Russ suspected, but after about an hour delay, the boats did head out to the island. We were given no guarantee we would be able to land on the island so we were still apprehensive about being turned away. The crossing was definitely rough, a few passengers got sick, but luckily the islands are only 8 miles from them harbor so we were there in about an hour. As we approached, I could see this teeny tiny ancient, totally unsafe, staircase winding up a near sheer cliff and I started to become anxious that we wouldn't be turned away and I would have to climb that thing. To my relief, it turned out there was a slightly more modern landing, and that tiny staircase had been closed. We were greeted on the island by a buff Irishman wearing a bright red polo, shorty denim shorts (it really wasn't warm) and worn combat boots. He informed us that the island was not to be taken lightly: a couple of tourists had fallen to their deaths on the stairs just a couple years ago. He tells us not to rush but we only have an hour and a half (seems somewhat contradictory). Then he turns us loose to climb to the monastery. On our own. Up 600 ancient steps.

On the saddle, nearly to the top

The views where just stunning and the steps were wider than I first thought. Both Russ and I kept marveling that the even let people on them. The whole island is an amazingly intact historical site and they just turned a bunch of tourists loose to wander around on it with a few warnings about staying on the paths.

A terrace part way up looking toward Little Skellig

We were met at the monastery by a guide who gave a brief overview of the history of the rock. Then we were turned loose to wander around the beehive structures that are mind bogglingly old. Again, we were slightly incredulous. I kept wondering, is it alright that I'm here? Apparently is was.

Beehive structures built by the monks as living quarters

In a way, it makes a lot of sense. Roping off the structures and closing the stairs would protect them but it also would prevent anyone experiencing that special thrill that comes from being around and inside something that old. Just by being near such an ancient structure you can feel the echoes of people that lived there eons ago. And that is one of the things that makes Ireland so great. Ancient ruins dot the landscape. Literally around every corner there is something that was built before the US became a country.

One of the beehives had a special resident. We were pretty stoked to see a Manx Shearwater chick getting ready to fledge! Apparently they also have Storm-petrels breeding in the stone walls, just like we have on the Farallones. They also have a lot of Fulmars on the cliffs and some Atlantc Puffins. Unfortunately the puffins were long gone when we were there.

Manx Shearwater chick

This is the ancient staircase I first saw from the water. We did not climb this!

On the way back down

After our all to brief visit to Skellig Michael, the boat took a brief pass by Little Skellig which is one of the largest Northern Gannet colonies in the world. Depending on who you believe, there are between 40,000 and 60,000 Gannets breeding there. It's pretty late for breeding seabirds but there were still plenty of birds packed on to the ledges and flying about. The whole rock bore a strong resemblance to a space port, little space ships coming and going, landing and taking off. I love it!

Little Skellig with Skellig Michael in the background

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